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Diamond Ring Setting Types

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A Ring Setting has Two Major Components:

Diamond Ring Setting Types The shank is the band of metal that encircles the finger. The head (s), which hold the gemstones in place in ring settings

The shank may contain hollows, grooves or channels in which other smaller gemstone can be placed. The head holding the bigger gemstones can be prong set, bezel set, channel set, invisible set or prong set. Small diamonds set in the ring setting can be pave set, bead set, flush set, or cluster set.

Wedding and Engagement Ring Settings

Wedding and engagement rings are available in a wide range of setting styles and there are many precious metals (Gold, Platinum and White Gold being the most popular) to choose from. It is always advisable to choose the shape and size of the diamond before choosing the ring setting because the diamond is most expensive component of the ring and most ring settings will only accommodate specific shapes.

Diamond Ring Setting Types

Diamond ring settings vary as much as the diamonds and many innovative and new designs are created everyday to beat competition. The ring setting type is as important as a diamond as it would decide the final appearance of a diamond as a jewel. The variety and quality of ring settings varies from jeweler to jeweler. If one seeks the best or wants something different, he/she needs to search more than one jeweler and also see the available variety on the online jewelry websites.

Prong Set Ring Setting

A Prong setting is the most common method for holding a solitaire diamond in a ring setting. It emphasizes the diamond rather than the metal holding it. Prongs are the little metal claws that bend over the edge of the gemstone to hold it securely in place. Prong setting is flexible in terms of diamond’s shape and is relatively easy to adjust to the exact size of an individual stone, independently of its size. There might be three, four, five, six or even as many as twelve prongs depending on the shape of the diamond. On diamonds with points like marquise, pear or princess cuts, the prongs are often fashioned into a specialized v-shaped prong for extra protection.

The prongs can come from a common point on the shank as in the classic Tiffany style head, or they can come from a basket. With the basket style, the prongs can be slightly smaller in size because they are supported by a basket framework. In the Tiffany style the individual prongs are only supported at their common base. A basket style also allows the diamond to be set lower since the prongs can come up straight to the diamonds girdle. The Tiffany style needs to set the diamond slightly higher to allow enough spread in the head to accommodate the size of the diamond. There are many varieties available for prong settings in designer rings.

The Bar Setting

The Bar setting is very commonly used in anniversary and wedding bands, and can also be seen in bracelets and necklaces. Here metal bars rise to the top level of the diamonds and are visible between the stones. These bars have a channel that the girdle fits in and the bottom of the diamond fits in a snug base for each stone.

Bezel Set Ring Settings

Bezel set is a collar of precious metal that wraps around the diamond. This is known to be an ancient setting technique but is used widely to this day. This type of setting is more popular in men’s jewelry and requires more labor than the prong setting since it must be fashioned to exactly fit the size and shape of the diamond. The inside dimension of the bezel shape must conform to the outside dimension of the diamond and be slightly wider. A seat is cut into the bezel and the diamond is set into this seat. The top of the bezel is then carefully hammered over the diamond such that it covers about 10% of the diamond.

The traditional bezel, also known as a solid bezel or full bezel, has the collar go completely around the diamond. A new variation of the bezel is known as the half bezel. Here the bezel is split into two sections, each covering just a part of the diamond. The bezel or half bezel can be excellent choices for diamonds that consists of inclusions visible from their side. Bezel can conceal inclusions that would otherwise make the diamond look inferior in quality.

Gypsy Setting

More famous in men’s jewelry, gypsy setting consists of a band as one continuous piece that gets thicker at the top. The top is shaped like a dome and the stone is inserted in the middle.

The Illusion Setting

This setting is more complex than others as it surrounds the stone to make it appear larger. The metal that surrounds the stone usually has an interesting design and should match the stone’s shade.

Flush Set Ring Setting

Flush set diamonds are sunk into the mounting until they are nearly level or flush with the surface. Only the table of the diamond and some of the facets on the crown are exposed. While this technique does not allow maximum light to enter the diamond, this subtle look has become increasingly popular. The flush setting is also used for larger diamonds. Because it provides considerable protection for the diamond and allows the diamond to be set quite low on the finger, the flush setting is popular for men's diamond ring settings.

Invisible Set Ring Setting

Invisible setting is the most elaborate type of setting in which the stones seem to float in a grid or covering a surface with no metal showing at all. Generally square or princess cut stones are used to provide a continuous titled surface where each stone is carefully trimmed to fit perfectly next to its neighbors. Then tiny grooves are cut in the back of the stone, on its pavilion. The stones are held together using a variety of techniques including: a network of wires, pins, bars or plates trilled to fit the stones. Not all invisibly set jewelry is built to last, so be cautious about bargain pieces. An invisible set ring setting is very difficult to repair if a stone pops out or breaks.

Since invisible set stones are usually in group of stones, they are almost never used for a center diamond. Since the diamond is actually cut with a groove or drilled with a hole for invisible set fastening, this damaging of an expensive center diamond is not recommended. There are many other setting techniques that do not damage the diamond and should be used for expensive stones.

Tension Setting

Tension set diamonds have the stunning visual effect of the diamond floating in the ring with no support from below. The diamond is basically pressed by the girdle on each side by the ends of the ring. Each metal end has a small groove called the 'seat' into which a small section of the girdle fits.

Tension set rings are manufactured with special alloys by a sophisticated technique which enables the metal to retain its memory. Depending on the style, tension products have anywhere from 65 to 95 pounds pressure on center stone. The precious metals are especially hardened and this is accomplished by pressure or by thermal treatment. This special treatment to the precious metal results in the precious metal having a certain springiness which will grip the diamond without the necessity of a bezel or claws.

Tension set products are mostly made for round and princess cut diamonds (square). Tension set products are also manufactured for marquise, pears, trillion cut, radiant cut, and emerald cut diamonds.

Pave Set Ring Setting

Significant surfaces of the ring setting can be covered or paved in diamonds. The pave set style attempts to cover the surface with tiny diamonds, creating what appears to be a coating of sparkling diamonds. Tiny diamonds are placed in small holes that have been drilled out of the ring shank. Pave set diamonds are usually very uniform in size, evenly spaced and set in uniform rows. The more precisely cut the diamonds, the better the ring setting will look when it is finished.

Brilliant cut round diamonds are generally used for pave rings settings since they provide the most sparkle. After it is positioned in its hole, tiny bits of metal from the surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of each diamond, forming tiny beads to hold the diamond in place. The cost of pave set ring settings is determined more by the bench time in setting all those diamonds rather than the actual cost of the diamonds and precious metal. As the pave technique has been improved over time, many top end designers have gone to micro-pave which is pave setting using very tiny diamonds under a microscope. The skill of the setter is the key to the quality and final appearance of pave ring settings. Extremely talented setters and a great amount of time produce works of art in the pave rings settings.

Bead Set Ring Setting

Bead set is similar to pave set, except that the diamonds tend to be a little large and spaced a little farther apart. The beads holding each diamond are a little larger and may even be engraved or decorated. On a shank that does not taper across the top, each diamond would be the same size. When there is a taper, the diamonds are often graduated with larger stones in the wide area and smaller stones in the narrower areas. By varying the size of the stones and the size of the beadwork, the ring setting designer can create very unique looks.

Channel Set Ring Setting

Channel setting is particularly popular in eternity bands and tennis bracelets since it provides excellent protection to the diamonds. None of the edges are exposed, so they are not subject to hard knocks or general wear and tear. Some larger center diamonds are channel set in the ring setting. This provides a clear view of the diamond from the two exposed sides and excellent protection on the two channel sides.

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